Highway for the Soul
I was stressed at work. My boss was giving me a tough time, my boyfriend dumped me and my bills were out of control. I needed to get out. I needed to escape the rat race of the big smoke.
I leave early with the intention of beating the traffic out of Sydney. After passing the airport, it was the smoke and congestion of the M5 tunnel that reminded me I am not yet out of the city. After the radio broadcasted its hourly news bulletin, the tunnel finally ceased and I continue down the motorway southbound.
The highway I am about to take is long and straight connecting the biggest city on the continent, Sydney, to the highest mountain in the country, Mount Kosciuszko. It’s a sealed road spanning 500km passing a couple of traffic lights around Canberra.
My first stop is Berrima, an historical and romantic village in the Southern Highlands about 1.5 hours from Sydney. I visit the quaint Berrima Farmgate Café for coffee and homemade scones. A quick stop at the popular Lolly Swagman shop fuels my sugar stash for the trip. Back in the car I cruise along the Hume Highway passing the farming regions around Goulburn, the many wine distilleries and the desiccate Lake George. The disappearing and reappearing waters of the vast Lake George meet with endless wind farms and rolling hills in the distance.
A stone sign reading, ‘Australian Capital Territory’, marks my entrance into a new state. As I skirt the city bowl of Canberra, Australia’s largest inland city, I see the magnificent Brindabella mountain range that flanks the city in the west. Was that the first sight of snow up high on the peak? Turning off the Hume Highway and onto the Monaro Highway is where the journey south to the Snowy Mountains really begins.
Gliding along the Monaro Highway I approach a service station near the old town of Michelago and stop briefly for petrol. The temperature has dropped to a chilly 9 degrees. A long stretch of road follows where I pass numerous cows grazing contentedly and endless flocks of sheep.
The road curves leading to the bustling town of Cooma - my next stop and the heavenly gateway to the alpine region. Stepping out of the car a biting cool air strikes me. 5 degrees. I enjoy a typical Australian country pub lunch and Kosciuszko Pale Ale at the Alpine Hotel in Cooma. I had the feeling of being far away in a place that calls for a cold beer. Afterwards I stroll along the main street admiring the many vibrant ski and snowboard shops with bold signs and flashing lights, their windows jam-packed with hundreds of colourful ski jackets.
The highway continues and passes through the pretty villages of Bredbo and Berridale. I must slow down to 60km/hour but I am able to take in the nuances of these peaceful towns. As I climb out of the Cooma region and the road soars over the now rich plains, Alps awake in the distance. Strange granite boulders appear on the hills having survived thousands of years of erosion. I lower the gears of the car up another foothill before the road suddenly reaches a peak and takes a nosedive. There the beautiful blue crystal waters of Lake Jindabyne appear before me. Boarded by mountainous ridges with snow-capped peaks, the road meanders around the mystical lake until it reaches the town of Jindabyne.
Lake Jindabyne
Jindabyne has a unique history where its old township used to be at the bottom of the lake. Due to construction of the Jindabyne Dam on the Snowy River in the 1960’s (part of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Scheme), the town was transferred to its current location. Now perched on the edge of this man-made lake, the town is a thriving holiday destination all year round and home to some dynamic locals and creative businesses. Its architecture is characteristically alpine. I drive through observing fresh signs of civilisation which were absent on the desolate highway.
As I pass signs reading ‘Kangaroos and Wombats Next 20km’ and the lines on the road turn yellow (indicating the snow line), I knew I was moving onto the high valleys leading to the top of Australia. I take the mighty left turn onto the Alpine Way and glide along this road for around 10km surrounded by majestic mountain scenery before turning left onto a smaller dirt road. This dirt road is often filled with notorious potholes from the rains but today it runs smooth. Resting on a small incline and billowing smoke from the chimney lies the quintessential guesthouse, Mia Creek Bed and Breakfast. I stray up the driveway penned with pine trees. The air was fresh and clear. 2 degrees. Was that a snowflake I just felt? Inside, the homestead was neatly presented with timber fittings. A lamp flickered on the bedside table in my room. I sank into the lounge.
I felt instantly at home in the warm confines of Mia Creek. It was a seamless mythology. Had I been here before? The owner showed me maps and talked about things to do in the area while a calm Golden Retriever lay on the mat by the door and the fire burned quietly.
With the challenges life throws at us we need to be able to slow down and remember the power of the open road. I think to myself every time I take this road of the peace and revitalisation it provides. It came to me that it wasn’t just a road to the high country, but a rite of passage to mending difficulties and feeling connected with the land once again. A sense of introspection – It’s what we all need from time to time. It will always be my escape from the big smoke. I highly recommend you find yours.